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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.